LIVE: Regimen Building + Q&A

One of the most frequent questions I get is what to do and when. Let me help you build a regimen that is sure to improve the health of your hair and get the results you want!

• Keep it simple - cleanse, condition and style. The less steps in your routine, the better your hair will respond. 
• You should aim to cleanse and condition every week to ensure your scalp maintains pH balance, your hair is not depleted of moisture and is receiving the nutrient replenishment it needs. 
• You can insert a clarifying shampoo (ex. Aveda Brilliant) every 4-6 weeks (especially if you are using oils to finish styles).
• Use lukewarm water to wash (hot water is too harsh)
• Install a shower filter if you have hard water or older plumbing 
• You can view the steps in my regimen here.> 

• Breakage and dryness are a result of protein-moisture loss in the cortex of the strands. You can effectively improve this by using the Elasticity Restoring Treatment every week. Curly hair is always on its way to being damaged and you have to take preventative steps. That is what your washday routine is supposed to cover! Proper cleansing and conditioning are the foundation for keeping moisture in the strands, reducing frizz, repairing damage and protecting your hair in the days after styling.
• Watch this pro-tips video on the difference between moisture and shine: Moisturizing Natural Hair - Is it dry or dull? 
• Learn more about cleansing and conditioning your curls with this in-depth tutorial: How to Cleanse + Condition Your Natural Hair 
• You should be getting your ends trimmed at least once per quarter. If you have issues with retaining length, you may need trims on a more frequent schedule like every 6-8 weeks. Here is a guide to understanding different types of haircuts to help you have a better conversation with your hair stylist - Hair cut guide (minute mark 3:40)
• If you have itchy, flaky or dry scalp, there are a number of reasons that is happening and I have created a guide to help you figure out what’s going on and how you can fix it! Watch this detailed video: 10 Reasons You Have Scalp Issues + How To Fix It (if the issue is extreme or persistent, you should make a dermatologist appointment to have your scalp evaluated and get allergy testing)
• Nutrition matters to the health of your scalp and hair! You should be drinking at least half your body weight in ounces of water per day and eat nutrient dense food: See this post with suggestions>. 

• If you have lots of tangle, a brush with a wider base and flexible pins will help the process for faster without causing additional breakage. The FHI Heat brushes are great for this task! There are two versions - UnBrush and UnBrush Plus - that you can explore more about on their website. Use code 'MOKNOWSHAIR' for additional 10% off at checkout.
• For more refined detangling and for evenly distributing products during styling, Tangle Teezers are great tools to have on hand! You can also try a three-row comb if you want a smaller tools to work with. Here is a detailed review to learn more about this tool: Detangling 101: How-To + Tips 
• Using a ceramic hooded dryer to set your styles is a game changer on reducing frizz, keeping elongation and getting time in your life back! If you currently are air-drying, consider investing in a ceramic hooded dryer.
• If you are trying to figure out what kind of tools are best for blowouts/straightening, checkout this guide: Your BEST Blowout 
• No matter what tools you use, you need to make sure you are regularly cleaning and disinfecting them! Watch this tutorial to learn the steps you need to take: How to clean and disinfect your hair tools 

• If you feel like you don’t understand the different categories of styling products and what they do, this guide will help you! There are also lots of tips for getting the best results: Styling Product Selection Guide + Tips
• When applying product, make sure you keep a spray bottle of water near. Keeping your hair wet during the process will help you use less product and get it spread more evenly.
• If you have excess visible product after refining your curls or twisting/rodding, blot it away with a microfiber towel. The froth/foam/visible product will settle into sticky pods and cause flaking after your hair is dry.
• When setting curls, you need to brush the product through evenly and use your fingers to shingle or coil curl clumps together if you want the most definition. Large sections or smoothing roots to ends with open hands (“prayer hands”) is not going to fully define the curls. Watch this tutorial to see how you can improve your wash-n-go results: Your BEST Wash-N-Go
• The more texture you have, the less layering you should do. When you have lots of turns/bends in the strand, the more product layers you pile on, the more likely you are going to have flaky results or build-up. Also, if you use products with strong hold, they will not sleep as gracefully as products with flexible hold - it’s a tradeoff you have to consider!
• If you are going to layer products and you are unsure of whether they will play nicely together, try rubbing a dap of each in the palm of your hands to see if they seamlessly blend. This is a tip I shared with the natural hair community way back in 2014! It’s not a guarantee that you won’t get sticky/flaky results, but it does give some indication. 
• If you layer multiple products with casting or “hold” the likelihood of flaking increases significantly (ex. gel on gel). You should stick to a leave-in spray or cream and one styling product if you frequently have issues. And note, leave-ins are not mandatory! Some styling products (especially gels and creams) may work better for you going directly on the hair. You have to try different application methods to find what works best.

There are a number of ways to wrap your hair at night and you may have to try different things to find a way that works best for you. Here are a few suggestions:

• Satin scrunchi to hold sections and cover with bonnet
• cover with bonnet only (pin curl or loosely retwist sections without wetting)
• sleep with no coverings, but on a satin pillow case
• create a pineapple on top with a scarf wrap if your hair is longer, or the other direction if your hair is shorter

• You can see how I preserve my hair overnight and during workouts here (minute mark 13:20).
• If you need to reset your hair before your next washday, the Moisturizing Co-Wash is perfect to remove old product, install some moisture and condition your strands to get you through!