Gray hair can present some challenges, but with just a few routine and mental adjustments, you can have a better experience as you gray and maintain the health of your hair. This tutorial is all about gray hair care with tips you can apply to your regimen!
Model: Mia (mid 50s')
• medium (normal) density
• relaxed with curly new growth
• high porosity (from the relaxer)
• started graying in late 20's, stopped coloring in 2017
Why does hair turn gray?
The hair itself is not actually “turning” gray - it is an optical illusion caused by less melanin produced in the follicle resulting in white/silver/gray appearance.
What causes less melanin production (gray hair)?
For the majority of people, it is simply age related. As we age, melanin production in the follicles slows and eventually stops completely in some strands. That is why most have a blend of gray and black/brown or “salt and pepper.”
Stress does NOT change the color of hair, but it can trigger a condition called effluvium which causes hair to shed 3x faster than normal and the new strands grow in without melanin.
Premature graying and other aging hair symptoms can be caused by hormonal imbalances, stress (effluvium), nutrition deficiencies, genetics or these health-related conditions:
- Vitamin B12 deficiency – lessens the growth of healthy blood cells leading to under-nourished hair follicles. Hair loss and premature graying are common in people with this deficiency.
- Neurofibromatosis and Tuberous Sclerosis - inherited diseases that cause tumor growth along nerves in bones and skin or organs (very uncommon)
- Thyroid disease – can interfere with melanin production in the follicles
- Vitiligo – causes melanin to be lost or destroyed and sometimes attacks the scalp
- Alopecia Areata – can cause sudden loss of hair that may grow back in without melanin
- Smoking – causes decrease in melanocytes in the follicles
You should speak with your doctor about treatments, supplements or adjustments in medication if you feel they are wreaking havoc on your hair.
Why is gray hair dry or “wiry”?
The sebaceous glands that produce natural oils in your scalp decrease activity, decreasing the cuticle/hair shafts ability to protect from moisture loss. Gray hair will feel more coarse, dry or wiry as a result of decreased sebum production.
How can you improve moisture retention in gray hair?
- Using the Scalp Clarifier, The Ultimate Hydrator and Elasticity Restoring Treatment weekly will gently exfoliate the follicles and stimulate healthy growth while hydrating and repairing the cuticle layer to help protect the strands from more moisture loss.
- Install a water filter for your shower if you live in an area with hard water.
- Cover your hair when you will be in the sun for hours to limit direct exposure. Use the Curl Primer to help protect from outdoor elements and pollutants.
What causes yellowing in gray hair?
- Styling products with artificial dye ingredients (ex. yellow #__). Using a toner or “purple” shampoo can neutralize the yellow tones out of the strands.
- Medication – chemotherapy drugs, inflammation inhibitors, certain muscle relaxers, chloroquine, minoxidil/rogaine, and others.
- Environmental factors – excessive sun exposure (UV ray damage), calcium or magnesium in hard water, exposure to other minerals or metals.
10 ways you can improve the health and appearance of your gray hair:
- Use a color depositing shampoo every few washes to remove any stains or yellow tint. A cleanser like Ouidad Tone It Away purple shampoo can help with this by neutralizing the brassy tones with a snatch of violet in the formula. If it is a lot of brassiness or green tone, you may need a toner processed with developer like the Wella Color Charm Permanent Crème toner and 10 volume developer (you should consult a stylist or at least do a patch test before applying it to your whole head).
- Avoid using any styling products that have artificial dyes in the ingredients.
- Protect your hair from sun exposure by wearing hats or other coverings when you know you’ll be outside in the sun for lots of hours and use the Curl Primer to help protect your strands.
- Install a water filter in your shower to avoid calcium and other mineral deposits.
- Cleanse and deep condition weekly with MoKnowsHair products to improve elasticity and moisture retention.
- Set your hair in styles that are able to last for several days to avoid excessive manipulation.
- Avoid high tension styles or anything that adds weight to the strands/follicles.
- Secure hair with satin or silk coverings or pillowcase for bed.
- Get your ends trimmed every 8-10 weeks.
- Use finishing products to add shine, hold and help control unruly flyaways. The Briogeo Sleek Stick and the KeraCare wax stick are pomade textured products that will help you control those wiry flyaways. Chi Silk Infusion is a smoothing silk oil that will increase shine and Agadir Argan Oil Strong Hold Hairspray help keep your curls in tact without the crunch - both of these products help repel humidity. Mizani HD Shine oil sheen is great for lightweight added shine that don't weigh hair down.
Tools featured in this tutorial:
- Tangle Teezer brush
- Denman Small Paddle Brush
- FHI Heat Versasphere Pro Multi-Styler
- FHI Heat Signature Pro Ceramic Flatirons (.5" and 1.75")
Use code "MOKNOWSHAIR" at checkout for additional 10% off FHI Heat tools.
I hope this gives you some valuable insight on gray hair care and things you can implement into your routine!
