These are my top 5 professional prep, set and styling tips for any texture to achieve a defined, voluminous, bouncy wash-n-go in just a few steps. The key to a great wash-n-go is getting it set right, that’s why this tutorial is focused on product application and techniques for different hair types. It can take some time to figure out your best combination of styling products and techniques to set your curls, but once you do, it can be as easy as cleanse, condition and style!
Models:
Kim, @kim.berly.carol
- fine strands
- low density
- loose texture - wave and spiral shaped curl pattern
- ~ 40% shrinkage
- virgin hair (no color)
Kelli
- fine strands
- high density
- tight texture - coils and s-shaped curls
- ~25% gray in front half
- ~50% shrinkage
- mixed porosity (low to med) from high-lift color
Tip #1 – Start with a clean palette.
Styling products work best on clean hair. The wash process is where you will get the moisture you are looking for into your hair - this is where the moisture magic happens!
The Scalp Clarifier and The Ultimate Hydrator shampoo are designed to gently exfoliate your follicles, ensure pH balance to your scalp, remove old product and insert botanicals, essential oils and repairing protein your hair absolutely needs to be healthy. If you need to reset your hair midweek, using the Moisturizing Co-Wash will remove the old product, hydrate and condition in one step so you can style fresh. Piling product on top of old product can create a sticky, flaky mess to deal with.
Once your hair is clean, using the Elasticity Restoring Treatment is going to help your hair be less frizzy, more defined, and protected during and after styling. This treatment has a blend of botanicals, essential oils and hydrolyzed quinoa to ensure the cortex of your strands have what they need while sealing and smoothing the cuticle to trap it all in, which helps prevent rapid moisture loss over the days.
This is a game of consistency! Setting your foundation each week with these cleansers and conditioners will have a huge impact on the health of your hair by balancing what it needs to be stronger, retain more moisture, which means less breakage and frizz. The moisture magic you are looking for is in the wash process. That’s it!
Tip #2 – Select your styling products based on the outcome you want.
Here’s a quick guide to wet setting product categories:
- Leave-in conditioners are exactly what they say, a leave in version of a conditioner you don’t have to rinse out. These can provide added slip, weight and hydration boost to the hair. You don’t necessarily have to use one if you have deep conditioned your hair. These are totally optional.
- Leave-in treatments, like the Curl Primer, are providing extra protection and assistance to solve whatever issue it’s formulated for. In this case, it is made to hydrate, protect from styling and environmental damage and prime your curls to get more definition.
- Lotions and cream stylers will have more of a supple finish as you apply them and usually have a soft to medium hold. They will be more flexible to sleep on, but have the weight to hold clumps of curls together.
- Foams or mousse are usually good for definition and if you have any type of curl pattern damage, they can be easy to work with because they won’t flake. These types of stylers have less hold overall and are volumizing, meaning your hair is going to swell more over the days. However, you can usually layer these with a lotion or cream to give it more weight and hold.
- Gels are the problematic friend you love, but you never know how she’s going to act! While gels give more hold, they flake more easily than other products because of the casting ingredients in their formulas. They often don’t like to be mixed with thick creams, they also don’t like to be overly fluffed after setting, and can be harder to sleep on. You have to apply them sparingly and try different methods to find your best outcome.
With any product type, you’ll have to try different application methods and mixes to find what you like best!
Here are some things to consider based on texture and density:
For fine, looser texture, low density hair like Kim has, less product is better! That will allow her curls to have more movement and volume.
The more texture you have, the less layering you should do to prevent pockets of product clumping in between the curves of your strands. If you have very dense hair with tight texture like Kelli, the hair will need the full capacity of the Defining Gel hold to keep the curls clumped. Watch her full tutorial here.>
Tip #3 - Use a brush to evenly distribute product from roots to ends and finger coil, shingle or use a curl clumping tool to set each section.
Section your hair before you start applying product so you can focus and stay organized. Keep a spray bottle handy! Applying product to wet hair helps it distribute more evenly so you can use less.
Pro-Tip: Kim has seborrheic dermatitis, so I am making sure to keep product off her scalp as much as possible so it doesn’t become irritated or itchy so quickly after washing. Additionally, if you want volume, keeping product about half inch away from the scalp will help achieve that.
Pro-Tip: If you are working on figuring out your best combinations of styler or which type to use, create an experiment! Isolate the variables. Divide your hair into quadrants and apply one product, on another layer that product with something else and another combo on sections 3 and 4. That gives you 4 different scenarios to compare outcomes.
Pro-Tip: You can also take a quarter size amount of each product you are wanting to use and blend them together in the palm of your hands. If they mix seamlessly, you should get a good outcome in your hair. If they don’t, you may reconsider applying all over and do a test section first. Also read the directions on the product to see if it suggest isolated application or mixing.
Product Application Takeaways:
- wet the section before applying product, unless you are using foam or mousse only, those are mostly water to begin with
- evenly distribute each product in between application
- use less product and massage it thoroughly into the hair while situating the curls
- products can lose hold when layering
- blot away excess product with a microfiber towel to prevent sticky film or flaking
- work on your natural dexterity (the ability to get your hands to do the right motions when styling)
When it comes to curl definition, what your hair will do is directly tied to the health of your hair. Wash-n-go’s are reliant on your natural curl pattern. If you have any structural or chemical damage, you will have a hard time clumping your hair neatly. You may also find that you struggle with products flaking or not holding well for several days. If you feel like you cannot get defined results, you’ve got lots of frizz, or puffy roots and mid sections, watch this tutorial all about curl pattern damage, how you can spot it and treat it.>
Tip #4 - Sit under a hooded dryer or diffuse.
If you want more retained stretch, very neat defined finish, like what you see when your hair is wet, sit under a hooded dryer.
If you want more volume, movement immediately and have less density or texture, you can diffuse to fill in your shape.
Pro-Tip: Let the hair sit for about 30 minutes or sit under a dryer for 10 before diffusing. Try not to throw the hair around a lot so you don’t break your curl clumps while it’s wet. And make sure you finish off with the cool shot!
Tip #5 - Get some finishing products in your stash!
No matter how you decide to set your curls, finishing products are your friends! Want shine? Use silk oil or oil sheen. Need more hold or about to be out and about all day? That’s what hair spray is for!
Texture reflects less light than straight hair so you need to use shine inducing products if you want shine day-to-day. The products you set your hair with will oxidize and loose that initial sheen. Click here learn more about moisture versus shine.>
You can also use a wax stick for your perimeter if you don’t like edge gel. These tend to be more forgiving on flaking with flexible hold.
Pro-Tip: Edge gels need to bond with the strands to set. If there’s any oily product under it, it won’t stick.Wipe your edges clean with a wet microfiber towel, then apply your edge gel, comb or brush it into place with some tension and set it flat with a hair scarf for 10-15 minutes.
Featured + Suggested Products:
- Mizani HD Shyne
- Agadir Argan Oil Volumizing Hair Spray
- KeraCare Wax Styling Stick
- Chi Silk Infusion Oil
Featured Tools:
- FHI Heat VersaSphere 6-N-1 Multi Styler (dryer) – use code MOKNOWSHAIR for additional 10% off at checkout
- FHI Heat UnBrush – use code MOKNOWSHAIR for additional 10% off at checkout
- Denman Volumizing brush
- Tangle Teezer brush
- Denman 3-Row Comb
- 360 Mist Sprayer
- Jumbo Crock Clips
- Red by Kiss Ceramic Hooded Dryer
Related content:
- Your BEST Wash-N-Go (featuring Kelli – high density/texture)
- Curl Damage: How To Grow Through It
- My Length Retention Regimen + Tips
- Moisturizing Natural Hair – Is it dry or dull?
- How To Clean + Disinfect Your Hair Tools
I know this all sounds so easy and that’s because it’s supposed to be! You should not be at war with your hair. The tips I give are repetitive and simple, because that’s what healthy hair care is - consistency and less steps. I hope these tips help you improve your wash-n-go routine!
